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House of Dr. Lucas

House of Dr. Lucas · Client resources

Measurement Guide

Wear Your Story

This guide records finished-GARMENT specifications, not direct body dimensions. Do not substitute these numbers for the measurements collected during a personal fitting.

47 methods across five garment categories. A precise reference for the pieces you own and the details you discuss with the atelier.

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An interactive digital edition · 55 pages

The Measurement Atelier — Interactive Guide

Finished-garment specifications, not body measurements. This edition uses the complete on-site reference; it is not an embedded copy of the separate illustrated PDF.

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HOUSE OF DR. LUCAS Finished garment reference

The Measurement Atelier

The art of
measuring a garment.

Wear Your Story

47 precise methods.
Five garment chapters.

Finished-GARMENT specifications, not body dimensions. Personal fitting measurements remain authoritative.

Digital edition · not a body-sizing guide1 / 55

Page 1 of 55

Before you measure

  1. Smooth the garment flat on a level surface. Preserve shaping rather than pressing it out.
  2. Button or fasten the garment as directed for each method. Align fronts and seams correctly.
  3. Keep the tape and fabric relaxed. Do not stretch, pull or compress the garment.
  4. Use either inches or centimetres consistently, note the unit, and measure twice.

Landmark offsets below are given in cm. If recording in inches, convert the offsets too (1 inch = 2.54 cm).

Double only when specified. A flat width × 2 records the finished circumference. A single width, length or height is recorded once.

Collar exception. The open shirt neck-band button-center to buttonhole-center distance is already the full neck circumference. Never double it.

47 of 47 methods

01 / Garment reference

Jackets

17 methods

Below armholes · flat width × 2
Landmark illustration · not to scale

01

Finished Chest

Lay the jacket flat, fronts aligned, appropriate button fastened. Measure across just below armholes.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

02

Finished Waist

Measure the flat width at the narrowest waist point.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

03

Finished Belly

Measure the flat width at the upper edge level of the lower pockets.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

04

Finished Seat

Measure the horizontal width 12 cm below the lower pocket flap.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

05

Finished Hem

For double vents, overlap the vents 6.5 cm. Measure across 2 cm above the hem.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

06

Finished Bicep

Lay the sleeve flat, with the larger panel below the smaller panel. Measure across from the underarm point to the fold.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

07

Finished Cuff Opening

Flatten the sleeve opening. Measure across the cuff edge.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

08

Shoulder Width

Measure from shoulder seam to opposite shoulder seam across the upper back, roughly 2 cm below the back collar.

Record as

Measured width × 1 = recorded width

09

Sleeve Length

Measure from the shoulder-to-sleeve junction to the midpoint of the cuff edge.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

10

Back Width

Measure across the back between the rear sleeve-to-body seam junctions.

Record as

Measured width × 1 = recorded width

11

Back Length

Measure from the center-back neckline down the center seam to the hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

12

Front Length

Measure from the shoulder-neck junction down the front to the lower hem, passing the front chest.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

13

First Button Position

Measure from the shoulder-neck junction to the first front buttonhole.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

14

Notch Lapel Width

Measure perpendicular from the lapel roll line to the notch lapel outer point.

Record as

Measured width × 1 = recorded width

15

Peak Lapel Width

Measure perpendicular from the lapel roll line near the collar/lapel junction to the outer edge of the peak.

Record as

Measured width × 1 = recorded width

16

Chest Welt Pocket Height

Measure from the upper to the lower edge of the chest welt opening.

Record as

Measured height × 1 = recorded height

17

Lower Pocket Flap Height

Measure from the flap upper attachment line to its lowest edge.

Record as

Measured height × 1 = recorded height

02 / Garment reference

Trousers

9 methods

Flat waistband · width × 2
Landmark illustration · not to scale

01

Finished Waist

Fasten the closure, overlap/align the waistband edges, and flatten. Measure across the center of the waistband.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

02

Finished Seat

Smooth the upper trousers. Measure the horizontal width about 7–8 cm above the crotch junction.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

03

Finished Thigh

Lay a single leg flat. Measure across the leg at the lower crotch point, perpendicular to the crease.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

04

Front Rise

Measure from the front waistband top along the crotch seam to the crotch seam intersection.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

05

Back Rise

Measure from the rear waistband top along the back crotch seam to the crotch seam intersection.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

06

Outseam

Measure from the waistband top along the outside leg seam to the hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

07

Inseam

Measure from the crotch seam junction along the inside leg seam to the hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

08

Finished Knee

Measure the horizontal width 5 cm above the midpoint of the inseam on the flattened leg.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

09

Finished Leg Opening

Measure the flat lower hem opening width.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

03 / Garment reference

Shirts

12 methods · Collar-band distance is never doubled.

Open collar · single distance
Landmark illustration · not to scale

01

Collar / Neck Circumference

Open the collar. Measure from the collar-band button center to the matching buttonhole center.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

NEVER × 2.

02

Collar Point & Stand

Measure the collar point from base to tip. Measure the collar stand from its lower seam to the top edge. Record separately.

Record as

Point: base-to-tip × 1; stand: lower seam-to-top × 1 (two separate lengths)

03

Shoulder Width

Measure across the back, approximately 2 cm below the shoulder endpoints.

Record as

Measured width × 1 = recorded width

04

Sleeve Length

Measure from the shoulder-to-sleeve seam to the outer cuff edge.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

05

Cuff Height

Measure from the cuff-to-sleeve attachment seam to the outside cuff edge.

Record as

Measured height × 1 = recorded height

06

Back Length

Measure from the center-back collar seam vertically to the shirt hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

07

First Button Spacing

Measure from the center collar button to the center of the first button on the front placket.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

08

Finished Chest

Button the shirt and smooth it flat. Measure horizontally just below the armholes.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

09

Finished Waist

Measure the horizontal width at the narrowest shirt waist.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

10

Finished Hem

Measure across near the bottom of the curved hem.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

11

Finished Bicep

Lay the sleeve flat. Measure across at the underarm/lower armhole.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

12

Finished Cuff Circumference

Fasten the outer cuff button and flatten. Measure across the middle.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

04 / Garment reference

Waistcoats / Vests

5 methods

Below armholes · flat width × 2
Landmark illustration · not to scale

01

Finished Chest

Measure the flat width below the armholes.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

02

Finished Waist

Measure the flat width at the narrowest point.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

03

Finished Hem

Measure the flat width across the lower side-seam/hem.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

04

Back Length

Measure from the center-back neckline down the center-back seam to the hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

05

Front Length

Measure from the shoulder-neck point down the front to the pointed lower hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

05 / Garment reference

Women's Tailoring

4 methods

Curved bust and over-bust measurements require professional fitting guidance. Do not flatten bust shaping; ask the studio to establish the size-specific waist reference.

Bust shaping · curved half-width × 2
Landmark illustration · not to scale

01

Women's Jacket: Finished Chest

With the jacket closed and fronts aligned, smooth without flattening the bust shaping. Measure the curved bust half-width, then double. This may require a professional bust-release technique.

Record as

Curved half-width × 2 = finished circumference

02

Women's Jacket: Finished Seat

Locate the size-specific front-waist reference. Measure 19 cm below it, then across.

Record as

Flat width × 2 = finished circumference

03

Women's Shirt: Front Length

Start near the shoulder-neck line, approximately 1.5 cm above the shoulder seam reference. Follow over the bust to the front hem.

Record as

Measured length × 1 = recorded length

04

Women's Shirt: Finished Chest

Button the shirt and smooth. Follow the curved bust fullness across the chest without stretching.

Record as

Curved half-width × 2 = finished circumference

A note on fit

Is a garment measurement a body measurement?

No. A finished garment includes its designed ease, structure and shaping. Its dimensions describe that garment, not the body inside it. Do not use this guide to choose a body size or replace a personal fitting.

Why are some widths doubled?

A specified flat half-width represents one side of a finished circumference. Record twice that width only when the formula says × 2. Shoulder and back widths, all single lengths and pocket heights remain single readings. The open collar-band distance is never doubled.

What if a garment is curved or shaped?

Preserve the shaping. For women's jacket and shirt bust measurements, and lengths passing over the bust, request a professional fitting. A specialist can establish curved half-widths, bust release and the correct waist reference without distorting the garment.

Can I keep a complete copy?

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